RINGS–ORIGIN, PURPOSES, HISTORY 

It is thought that the ring is a modification of the cylindrical seal which was worn attached to the neck or arm and eventually reduced in size so that it could be worn on the finger.

Signet rings were used in Egypt from a very remote period. The custom of wearing rings went from Egypt to Greece. Rings were made of various materials such as gold, silver, ivory, and amber.

Another origin of the ring is the knot. Knotted cords or wires were favored charms in primitive times. They were often used to cast a spell on someone, at other times the power of the charm was directed to an evil spirit. Magic virtues of rings may have originated in this manner.

Often, rings are made in the form of a knot. The lovers knot ring resulted from this form.

See a stunning display of Kenneth Jay Lane’s rings at http://beadsbymail.com/kjl_rings.htm

Many objects including rings were found in Persia dating from the 2nd millennium before Christ. The find included rings of sepentine shape with many spirals, as well as rings with bezel set paste gems and the frequent knot design.

The oldest Greek ring bearing an inscription is from the Mycenean period and is a gold hoop with the name Lenarka engraved on it. Several of the Greek personages from Homeric times owned engraved rings. Helen of Troy is depicted in a painting wearing a ring with an enormous fish engraved on it.

The Romans wrote laws regarding the wearing of rings by men. The iron ring was regarded as a mark of individual honor. Citizens of lesser birth wore gold rings. Roman women were not limited by these sumptuary laws and could wear rings of any metals or design. Freed slaves wore gold rings to identify them as freedmen.

In India, both men and women wear toe rings.

During Medieval times and the Renaissance, as well as later, ladies’ gloves had slits over the fingers so their rings could be displayed.

In the 16th century, rings were assigned to be worn as follows:

the doctor: on the thumb
the merchant: on the index finger
the fool: on the middle finger
the student: on the pinky
the lover: on the fourth finger

Wealthy Egyptians wore only filigree or openwork rings in summer to keep their fingers cool.

Shakespeare’s signet ring bears a beautiful rendition of his initials WS in a circular disc.

See a stunning display of Kenneth Jay Lane’s rings at http://beadsbymail.com/kjl_rings.htm

The parts of a ring:

Bezel or head: the top of a ring into which stones can be mounted or set into separate holders called collets.
Collet (kohl-ay): receptacle for stones which can be either cup shaped or made from metal strips bent to shape.
Hoop or shank: the part that goes around the finger.
Shoulders: the part that joins the hoop and the bezel, frequently decorated. Most of KJL’s rings have stones or other embellishment in this area.

Cuts of stones:

Cabochon (CAB-oh-shaun): a stone with a polished, domed upper surface and a flat back. Also called a “cab”.
 
Facet: the face of a stone cut and polished.
 
Girdle: the widest part of a stone.

Brilliant-cut: introduced in the 17th century, has an octagonal table at the top and 58 facets above and below the girdle. By far the most frequent cut for diamonds and precious colored stones.

Cushion-cut, princess cut, marquise, emerald, pear: all are types of stone cuts.