Beads by Mail Online Necklaces & Ideas

I love bugle beads! This design is a good introductory project to bead weaving. The bugle bead foundation progresses very quickly. You don't need prior bead weaving experience, so it is a good way to find out if bead weaving is a skill you want to develop.

The colors look wonderful together. The color of the bugle beads is scarabee, which refers to the iridescent color of a beetle's wing. I included a 4mm Chinese turquoise bead in the fringe--it adds interest.

The beads you need for this project are 4mm Chinese turquoise, 16" for $18.99; 1 pack each of 6mm fire polish in amethyst, Montana, and olivine ($2.99 or less each); a 20-gram bag of bugle beads in scarabee, $2.99; same in turquoise $2.99; 2 packs of 4mm jet ab fire polish at $1.99 a pack; and a few seed beads for the ends of the fringe, which we will include at no cost. You will have some beads left for other projects.

A kit containing all the beads but no needle or thread is $35.00.

Getting Started

The first step is to weave the bugle bead foundation "ladder". Next you add a row of 4mm fire polish beads along the top of the ladder. Then you add the fringes to the other side. This takes the longest. The last step is to sew a hook and eye or button and loop clasp to the back.

The useful feature of bugle bead foundation is that you can always make it longer by adding a few bugles. To shorten all you need to do is turn the beads under and anchor them.

The most important tool in this project is your needle. You will be threading it many times so you want to choose a needle that is easy to thread. But you must also choose one that is fine enough to go through the bugle beads several times. Each bugle in the ladder has three lines of thread going through it, so you don't need especially strong thread, ordinary sewing thread will do. The thread shows, so choose thread colors that blend in. Test your needle by threading it and sewing several times through the same bugle bead to make sure the needle won't get jammed.

You will be annoyed if your thread kinks and splits so use beeswax to condition it. If you don't have beeswax you can rub the thread on a candle. If the needle splits the thread you will not be able to pull it snug. This is bound to happen at least a few times, and the only solution is to remove the needle, pull out the thread, and do the stitch over again. Loud swearing is encouraged, but only if your kids are asleep or out of the house!

Please do not tie any knots whatsoever until you are completely finished! You never know when you will be sewing through a bead and a knot will prevent this. You can weave thread tails as you work or leave them till you are finished.

Making the Bugle Bead Ladder (Illustrations for right handers)

The stitch for the bugle bead foundation is easy. It is simply a back and forth motion that reverses the direction of the needle every time you add a bugle bead. The bugle beads are added onto the ladder one at a time.

Examine each bugle bead to make sure it is the same length, has no rough or angled edges, and has a good hole.

To start, thread your needle with about 3 feet of thread. String on a bugle bead, #1. Pass through (PT) the bead again, leaving about a 4" tail. Holding #1 in your left hand, string on bead #2, line it up exactly parallel to #1, and pass through (PT) #1. PT #2 so your needle is aimed in the opposite direction. String on #3. PT #2 and #3. Always pull the thread snug so the beads line up next to eachother as shown in the drawing below. Your needle will switch direction each time you finish adding a bugle bead. There is a certain rhythm to this stitch, as in all repetitive movements.

When you have about 8" of thread left, add one more bugle, PT the neighboring bugle, complete the stitch, and remove the needle, leaving about 4" of thread. Leave about a 4" tail when you start the new thread. Start it by weaving through a few beads first.

You may find it is comfortable to work with a longer thread so you don't have to keep threading the needle. However, the more you work with a thread the more likely it is to kink and split, so keep the candle or beeswax handy! The fewer "tails" you leave, the better.

When you have about 14" of ladder you should measure the fit on your neck. Add more bugles if necessary.

When the length is good, PT all the beads from the end to the beginning to line them up. This may shorten the ladder somewhat so you will need to measure again. The ladder does have some flexibility which makes it very comfortable to wear. This last step is really important. If you can't push the needle through a bead, just skip it.

When you are done with the ladder you will have a border of thread on both edges. The ladder is really strong because of all the thread added to it. Now you can add a heavier fringe without worrying that it will strain the foundation.

Figure 1 shows how to weave the bugle bead ladder.

Top Border of 4mm Beads, Figure 2

When the ladder is finished, you add the top border of a single row of 4mm fire polish beads. This makes a neat finish to the top of the necklace. Now you can switch to a larger needle and heavier thread, since the holes in all the beads for the border and the fringe are larger. It will be much easier to work with a larger needle. You should also use stronger thread like nylon upholstery thread. It is also available in colors. You could double the sewing thread, but this makes it difficult to avoid splitting.

Anchor the thread in the loops of ladder threads and pick up one 4mm bead. Slide it down to the top edge of the ladder, and PT a loop of thread next to it. You will need to judge how close to insert the needle next to the 4mm bead. Continue adding 4mm beads, one by one, until done. This is like overcasting. If you space these beads too close you will "gather" the ladder and shorten it. Anchor the thread among the other loops when done.

The Fringe

Making the fringe is fun but also takes time. You could try using a longer needle. Anchor the thread in previous loops. If you are making a fringe just in the center (as in photo), start your first fringe line about 5" from the center of the ladder.

Thread on the beads in the order shown in the photo: amethyst, turquoise, olivine, Montana, turquoise bugle, and seed bead. Skip the seed bead and PT all the other beads again. PT thread loops on the ladder. Pull snug but not too tight otherwise fringe won't hang straight. This is where you may have splitting problems! If so just remove needle, and do it over again.

The spacing of each fringe line is important. You can always add fringe if you leave too big a space. More fringe makes a more luxurious look. I was in a hurry to finish this so I skimped on fringe.

If you make a mistake it is easy to correct, just remove needle, beads, and do over.

Last steps are to weave all the thread tails back through beads and/or existing thread loops. It is also a good idea to add a drop of glue here and there to stabilize your thread ends.

To make a clasp, you can easily sew on a hook and eye, or you can make a seed bead loop on one end and sew a button on the other side.

When you wear this you will feel like a princess!

1. Use tigertail to string the necklace. (The tassels are made separately and attached later.)
2. Each end has a small spring ring for stability and to have a place to attach the tassel. (If you want to wear the necklace as a conventional strand you can always remove the tassels and you will have a way to attach a clasp.) If you use a jump ring, put a drop of glue on the opening of the ring & let set. A spring ring is more secure.
3. You need to decide the correct length before you start. Remember that the strand is doubled. I used about 140 pearls for the necklace, excluding the tassels.
4. The first step is to cut the correct length of tigertail. It should be about 8" longer than the length you calculated for the necklace.
5. Start by stringing a crimp on one end of the tigertail, then the spring ring, then go back through the crimp. (If you don't understand this please read our instructions for basic stringing .) Adjust the tigertail so there is about a half inch on one side that you will conceal inside the first few pearls you string. Squeeze the crimp tight & make sure it does not allow the tigertail to slip.
6. String the pearls. Try on the necklace to make sure it is the correct length. Add or remove beads.
7. It is very important to adjust the tension correctly on the necklace. If tension is too loose, the tigertail will wrap around & make it difficult to get the smooth "sliding" effect you want. If the tension is too tight the necklace will break. You will be able to test this before you complete the last step below.
8. Finish the end with a crimp, spring ring, and conceal the left over tigertail inside a few beads. Before you squeeze the last crimp try the necklace on to see if it slides easily thorugh the loop and that the tension is right. If you are satisfied then you can squeeze the crimp, push the cut end of tigertail through a few beads, and trim the tigertail close to the bead.

Tassels are fun to design. You can be really creative! Any type of beads in most any size will work. I have seen tassels made of many strands of tiny seed beads that are impressive ... you can find tassels in the drapery department, then you can add beads to them. It helps the necklace hang properly if the tassels have some weight to them.

Our tassels contain several 6mm faceted crystal AB beads for spacers and to fit into the spring rings, 15mm cream pearls, crystal ab fire polish drops (16mmx12mm) and an elegant black gem onyx bead inlaid with Swarovski rhinestones. You can see the arrangement in the photo above right.

1. Decide how long to make the tassel. Since tassels are attached separately you can always change them.
2. I strung mine on heavy thread for flexibility and drape. You can also use jewelry wire--24 gauge would be the right size. The tassels should not be stiff. You could also put each bead on a separate looped wire (like a rosary).
3. Attaching the tassel is easy. If you use thread, cut a length of thread about 2 feet long and thread your needle (make sure the needle will go through all your beads).
4. Start by making several half hitches (buttonhole stitch) around the spring ring. Leave about a 6" tail of thread to conceal later.
5. Then start stringing the beads onto the tassel making sure you fit a smaller bead inside the spring ring. When you come to the end, skip the last small bead and go back through all the beads to the spring ring. Tighten so no thread gaps show. Don't pull too tight. Make a few half hitches around the spring ring. Sew back through two necklace pearls, turn a few half hitches on the tigertail, and remove the needle. Thread the tail from the start of the tassel and conceal it within the pearls in the same way. Put a drop of glue on the knots and let set while you make the second tassel.
6. If you use wire to string the tassel, you attach the tassel after making it by turning the wire around the spring ring a few times and then pushing it through a few of the pearls. Turn the wire around the tigertail between the pearls a few times. A drop of glue here doesn't hurt. After the glue has set you can trim the ends.

You make it with 2 rows: the foundation strand and the strand with the points. I started it at 9:00 AM and made the above photos at 10:30 AM. It's the first time I made a necklace using this separate stranding technique, which has potential for all sorts of design variations.

The photo of the purple & silver beads shows another look with shorter wider points and ceramic seed beads which have large holes--you can use heavy thread and a large needle -- both easy to work with.

Instructions for the flower necklace and bead details are below. You need about $28 worth of beads (not counting a clasp) and you will have enough left over for matching earrings & maybe a bracelet. The other beads are 3mm pearls ($3.49 for enough) and 5mm crystal AB machine cuts ($15.99) for sparkle. You could use fire polish to reduce the cost by about $8.00 but machine cuts really make this special.

You can vary the pattern by making the points with far fewer beads so they are shorter. Or you can space the crystal beads on the foundation strand further apart, this also has the effect of decreasing the length of the points.

• One strand of 3mm glass pearls, 75 for $1.99, you need about 200
• 50 5mm crystal AB machine cut beads, $15.99 (just enough)
• 25 green leaf beads, $2.29 (you will have leftovers)
• 25 pink opal AB daisy beads, $2.99 (you will have leftovers)
• 1 fish hook clasp & 2 crimps $1.00

Other supplies needed:

• Tigertail, Beadalon, or 24 or 26 gauge craft wire (see below)
• Scissors, jewelry pliers ($13.99)
• Needle that passes through all beads (test it first)
• Strong thread (I used nylon upholstery thread)

The technique is to string the foundation strand of pearls first. This strand has 1 crystal AB bead, 20 pearls, 1 5mm crystal bead, 10 pearls, 1 crystal AB bead, 10 pearls, 1 crystal AB bead, etc. until you have strung 9 of the 10-pearl segments. Then finish with 20 pearls and a crystal AB bead. You need an uneven number of 10-pearl segments so you will have a center segment that you can modify as I did rather than have all the points the same.

The original instructions I followed called for stringing the foundation row on 24 or 26 gauge wire. I did that and had some trouble attaching the clasp. The wire broke on one end. I believe you can do this with tigertail or beadalon. It certainly would simplify the attachment of the clasp. Since the necklace is short, it will hang properly when done with tigertail or beadalon.

Aunt Jane's Advice

Before I get started I gather all my items and put them on a bead board or other receptacle so I don't have to jump up in the middle to look for something. If I get interrupted I can leave the project in its tray and go slaughter the person who interrupted me.

The first time you do this necklace it will take some concentration so reserve a couple of hours alone time for it.

Instructions for the Foundation Strand

Step 1. Measure a piece of tigertail or wire long enough to go around your neck at about your collarbone. Add 6 inches. Cut. Wrap a piece of tape on one end 2" from the end to keep beads from sliding off as you string.

Step 2. String one 5mm crystal AB bead (CAB) and 20 3mm pearls (P). Now start your pattern: string one CAB, 10 P, one CAB, 10 P, etc. until you have nine (or eleven? or seven?) 10-P segments. As long as you have an odd number of segments. Finish with one CAB, string 20 P and end with one CAB. Check your work to make sure you have strung the patterns correctly. Wrap tape around the end. The photo below shows what the foundation row looks like when completed.

Adding the Second Strand

Step 3. Thread your needle with a very long thread about 6 feet. You don't want to run out of thread before you reach the end. Working slowly will prevent the thread from tangling. You can also coat it with beeswax to prevent tangling (if no beeswax, rub the thread over a wax candle). Do not double the thread.

Leaving about a 2" tail, sew through the first pearl on the end a couple of times (not the CAB). Make a couple of half hitches (buttonhole stitches) around the foundation wire. Tie the tail and the thread securely. Later you will glue this knot to make it permanent.

Step 4. Take needle through the next 19 P and the next CAB. If the needle is stubborn, grab the point with your pliers & pull it through. You know it goes through because you tested it!

Making a Point

Step 5. Now make your first point. Pick up * 4 P, 1 CAB, 3 P, 1 leaf (L), 1 CAB, 1 daisy (D), and 1 P. Skip the last P and go back through the D. Pull thread snug so the beads are next to eachother but not too tightly strung. Pick up a CAB, a L, 3 P, a CAB, 4 P * . Check to see that both sides of the point match. Now go through the CAB on the foundation strand. Voila! The drawing below illustrates this step.

Step 6. Go through the next CAB and repeat between * * . There are four of these points on each side of the longer center point on the necklace I made. The center point is longer because there are 4 Ls and 2 extra CABs. Do your own thing here in the center. Maybe you have some beads that would look wonderful in the center of this necklace -- add them.

Step 7. To finish the necklace, repeat the points. Look at the point before you finish attaching it to avoid errors. Ripping is not advised. If you have to rip, put the needle back through the same way. It's easier to try this than to rethread the needle.

After the last point, sew through the last 20 P and tie knots between the last P and the last CAB. Cut thread but leave a 2" tail. Dab a drop of glue or clear nail polish on the thread knots at each end & let dry. After glue has set, trim thread tails.

Step 8. Attach crimp & clasp at each end. Squeeze crimp. Wear & collect admiring comments. You look Mahhrrrvelous!